Physical characteristics of the Bulldog

The Bulldog is a very special dog, squat, powerful and massive, short-legged, with great astonishment head relative to its size. The skull shows very pronounced wrinkles; the muzzle is short and crushed. The eyes are round, medium size, located low on the skull and rather wide apart, very dark (almost black). The ears are small, shaped like a rose. Teething is significantly undershot with the mandible which is more advanced than the jaw.
Coat: short, fine and smooth.
Color: the most desirable are red brindle, brindle, beige, pure white, red and variegated. It is essential to avoid fire black and liver.
Size: 30 to 40 cm
Weight: about 25 kg for males and 22.7 for females

Origins and history

He just fighting dogs used in the Middle Ages against the Bulls (hence the name “bull” in English means bull). This is the result of a selection which aimed to create a dog with a powerful bite, very fierce and courageous, insensitive to pain: this unhealthy selection, which sought to produce only “war machines”, was about point completely destroy the race that had become unmanageable due to his excessive ferocity. Thus, the Bulldog was nearly shut down until a group of farmers is interested and began working on his character by removing all traces of aggressiveness. Today the Bulldog is a very friendly pet dog, sweet and quite balanced.
Character and abilities
Out of a painful past, the Bulldog is now a very loving dog, happy living player. It is a perfect companion for children and the elderly, particularly because it does not need lots of exercise and adapts well to a sedentary life. This is however not a “trinket” because he can accompany his master without problems in long walks, when the heat is not too intense. It finds his old aggression that when someone threatens his master or, even more, his children: he is ready to give his life for them. It can become truly formidable, despite its small size, because it still has a steel outlet and is almost insensitive to pain.


It is very heat sensitive because of its short muzzle and crushed: the summer, it should not come out when it’s too hot and should never be left in a hot car (even for a short time). His eyes are very delicate but just monitor and clean regularly to prevent irritation.
Average life expectancy: about 9 years


Always and only within, where he shows quiet and very clean. The only problem is that drool a lot and need to clean it often enough mouth.
Information and tips
He loves his master and should remain as much as possible in his company. This is a dog that is suitable for sedentary or who have an intellectual activity because he loves to lie at the feet of his master while reading or writing, seeming too immersed in deep “meditations”.

Characteristics of the Labrador Retriever

The Labrador Retriever is a strong and sturdy dog, very heavy. The head should be proportionate to the size of the body, well modeled, dry, with somewhat fleshy cheeks. The skull is wide, with a well defined stop. The eyes are dark brown or hazel, of medium size, with a good, intelligent expression. Ears should not be large or heavy: they are worn hanging close to the head and tied a little behind. The thorax is ample and well let down, well-sprung ribs (barrel). The back line should be straight from withers to rump. The tail is a characteristic of the breed: very large at the base, it tapers towards the end. She shows no fringe, but is covered with short hair, thick and provided that gives it the appearance of a “otter tail”. Members must have good bone structure and be straight.
Coat: Short, supplied without fringe, rather rough. The undercoat is dense and weatherproof.
Color: the only permissible colors are yellow, black or brown (called chocolate).
Height: 57 cm maximum for males and 55 cm maximum for the female
Weight: approximately 30 kg

Origins and history

The origin of the Labrador Retriever has much in common with that of Newfoundland and it is rather difficult to distinguish the two original forms. In many texts of the nineteenth century, without distinction uses the terms “Newfoundland” and “Labrador” to evoke water dogs the Canadian coast. The ancestor of the Labrador seems to be the “St John Dog”, a smaller version of Newfoundland that has developed in Canada at about the same time as this dog. The Cão de Castro Laboreiro has probably also contributed to the Labrador training. The race was then much widespread in Britain and this country who got fatherhood.

Character and abilities

This is one of the friendliest dogs, happiest and most playful in the world. While this is an excellent worker, he does not think that actually is work and wants to just have fun and be happy (that’s why the best training system has to go through the game). The Labrador Retriever is absolutely safe for children old enough but it can be “dangerous” for children because of his great strength he did not even realize: it might, for example, hurt them by making their festival . Like all Retrievers is a tireless worker, very soft and very easy to train, but he has known for some time a huge success as a pet.


When he is very young Labrador Retriever should not do too much exercise (eg, do not make it up the stairs); once it has grown, it is a dog with an iron health. All we have said for other Labrador Retrievers applies: thus, when it comes out of the water, it must dry the base of its tail.
Average life expectancy: about 13 years


Theoretically, it can also live in an apartment, but when he is young … you have to see if the apartment can resist it! As an adult, he became “a little” more tranquil but his unbridled joy of life (which is also contagious as the Labrador can be a very good antidepressant) is rather tip the balance toward a plant in the garden.

Information and tips

The fact that this is a very sweet and very nice dog does not automatically mean it is suitable for everyone. Before buying a puppy, so you have the most information possible about the breed.

Boxer dog breed

boxer breed

Boxer physical characteristics

Varieties: a) fawn; b) brindle

Medium in size, robust but harmonious and elegant. The head is square with short muzzle to the skull: the proportion is 1/2. This is a dog undershot, with the mandible which is slightly more advanced than the jaw. This type of dentition is a fault in most breeds but it is prescribed in the standard of the Boxer. The eyes are very dark. The ears can be cut to a point or left whole: in the latter case, they fall forward with a slight bend. The tail is set high, cut short and carried erect or left to natural.

Coat: short, hard, shiny and adherent.
Color: yellow (in different tones, from dark red to light tawny yellow) or brindle. The white patches are permissible provided they represent less than one third of the base color.
Size: 57-63 cm for males and 53 to 59 cm for females
Weight: 30-38 kg for males and 24-32 kg for females

Origins and history

It descends from the former “Bullenbeisser” (catcher bulls), and in particular the bulls Dog Brabant, a type of Bullenbeisser less stocky and more flexible. The current type of topics in exhibitions since the end of last century.

Character and abilities

This is one of the most balanced fighting dogs and having the best character. The Boxer is very gentle with children and love them so much that we could award him the prize for “best babysitter on all fours in the world.” He is gay, playful and friendly with everyone, unless someone wants to his master or his property. In this case, it becomes a terrible opponent. It is not easy to train for a layman, but it gives wonderful results if it is entrusted to expert hands. However, even if it is not prepared, it spontaneously fills the gatekeeper function and advocate, especially for children. It remains sociable and even old player one.


Like all dogs, the Boxer can have respiratory problems in the event of excessive heat.

Average life expectancy: 10 years


The Boxer can live in a garden, even during the winter, it has a suitable shelter, but he prefers to live inside with his teachers because of its extremely sociable character. It should never be left in a car in direct sunlight or in a garden without the opportunity to get in the shade. In one house, he does not lose his hair but he drools a little.

Information and tips

As it is a very common dog, we can find puppies. Simply, it is not always selected topics correctly. So it is always advisable to contact a good breeding because unselected dogs might not have the wonderful character of which we spoke. If you consider the fact that drool in the house is very annoying, you should choose a female because she drool less than the male. Keep following this blog for more dog breed reviews and lots of curious information. Let us know if you have any tips or suggestions how to improve our work and give you a better reading experience.

Physical characteristics of the Dobermann


Varieties: a) black and tan; b) brown and tan
The Dobermann is a medium sized dog, strong and muscular, with elegant lines and the proud and noble port. The head is shaped elongated, blunt wedge. The Crane-face lines are parallel, the stop is light, the deep and wide muzzle. The eyes are of medium size and oval shaped. The ears, usually cut, set high and carried erect (in those whose ears are not cut, they fall back on the sides of the head with well bonded edges cheeks). Back short and strong. The members are straight and plumb. The tail is shortened to the second vertebra.
Coat: short, very adherent and smooth.
Color: black and tan or brown and tan, depending on variety. Blue is not higher because this variety was carrying genetic defects.
Size: 68-72 cm for males and 63 to 68 cm for females
Weight: 40-45 kg for males and 32-35 kg for females


Origins and history

The breed originated between 1850 and 1870 in Apolda, Thuringia, through a tax collector, Frédéric Louis Dobermann, who wanted a defense dog completely different from those before. Then, his work was continued by other breeders, who introduced other races on the identity of which there is controversy: we speak Pinscher, of Weimaraner, Rottweiler and maybe some Terriers. The contribution of the Beauceron was probably very important since we can still see clearly his mark on the physical aspect of Dobermann.

Character and abilities

This is one of the sweetest dogs and more sensitive to the world: he literally loves his master, with whom he “must” live in close contact. A lot of nonsense is said about the Dobermann: the best known is the one that claimed that these dogs “went crazy” at the age of seven years due to the narrowing of the cranial cavity (it’s one of the greatest nonsense, of scientific point of view, that we have ever heard in canine … and yet we hear!). Fortunately today, the Dobermann was rehabilitated and all you hear very rarely talk about dogs going crazy or “indomitable ferocity.” This dog is very gentle and safe for children (provided to be left alone!) he keeps a nature reserve vis-à-vis foreign which is typical for fighting dogs. A balanced subject will never aggressive without cause and will be a wonderful companion dog who lives for his master.



He is suffering from cold and moisture.
Average life expectancy: about 12 years



The Dobermann should be considered as a lap dog because he is suffering from cold and has a vital need for human companionship. Indeed, it is a defense dog and not an area warden or property, although it can of course properly perform this function.


Information and tips

Only unselected subjects from hazardous couplings can show nervous and sometimes biting. It is therefore essential to buy a puppy in a good breeding which selects the beauty as well as the character of dogs. Otherwise you may end up with a dog that will want you for dinner after a few years or so and that is highly undesirable.

How to wash your dog effectively

washing a dog
I noticed that many people asked the question: how to wash his dog properly and effectively? I understand that for some of you this may be a difficult time to wash the dog, especially when your pet is not very familiar with the water.

Here are some tips to help you bathe your dog, so this is a good time, not a showdown.

how to wash his chienPréparer equipment to wash his dog

The first step is to bring a suit. You can not go to war without your combat gear. This may seem a bit exaggerated, but it still applies in everyday life, even when it comes to washing his dog.

Be sure to get it right, especially if you wash your dog inside your home. It is important to prepare two bath mat, the first place in the tub so your dog does not slip and break a leg and the second out of the bath.

You can also try putting some plastic bags as garbage bag around you, it is not necessary, but you will definitely save time for cleaning. And they can also protect your equipment from splashing water.

Adjust the water for your dog

It is best to use warm water to give comfort to your dog. Be sure to let the water before your dog enters.

When some dogs hear the water running, it is sometimes possible that fear manifests and prevents the dog from entering the tub, so you should get used to run water in your bathroom in your presence several times a week before it enters the bath.

If you do not have a removable shower head, you can prepare a small seal if your dog is large or cup if your dog is small. This is what you will use to pour water on your pet.

Protect his ears and eyes to prevent water and dog shampoo from entering.

How to wash your dog in the bath?

Before putting your dog in the tub, make sure to brush it to avoid knots. Sometimes the nodes may worsen by wetting the coat and applying the dog shampoo or conditioner, so it is important for you to brush his hair before wet.

If you do not know how to brush a dog, here’s an article on “How to brush your dog with furminator brush“.

You are now ready to put in the bathtub. wear your dog and place it in the bath. Pour water over his head before proceeding to pour water on his body. Be sure to avoid the eyes and nose. If your dog moves energetically said softly, “not move”. If the dog struggles and is trying to resist your attempts to give it a bath, then this may create quite a bit of a mess afterwards. Some dogs even remember to take revenge and they go to the toilet on the carpet or sofa, just to get back at you. In those cases, you might fall in need of a professional cleaning company to help you sort things out. Usually there are a lot of these available so you do not have to search long and hard to find one.

Apply preferably a natural dog shampoo. (Do not use human shampoo or chemical), it is for this reason that there are natural dog shampoos with essential oils.

Shampoo his neck, and body, undercoat and thighs, and down his cock, still talking to him reassuringly. Make sure your hand is placed on your dog to prevent it from shaking the foam. Do not be rude to him, he must feel at ease with you.

Use the shower head to rinse your dog, make sure to cover the eyes and nose. Start with the head and body.

Make sure to rinse your dog. After making the flush, you can now get him out of the tub. You can leave your dog dry in the sun, however, if there is no sun, you can simply wipe with a dry towel, or you can use a hair dryer.

Important Note: Do not fan or radiator set your hot bath or high temperature (bad for the heart ) and avoid putting too close to your dog hairdryer.

It’s best to dry your dog to the towel to avoid burns. Finally, do not let your dog get out, until it is completely dry, especially if it’s cold. In summer, you can enjoy the warmth for watering the pipe, it will be clean and fresh!

That you now know how to wash his dog efficiently!

Comparative review of hunting dogs – Braque Hungarian and German Shorthaired Pointer

German Shorthaired Pointer

Kurzhaar German History and Braque dog would be derived from the common root of all retrievers, the dog Oysel, later called ” est Dog ”, used for hunting birds and nets for hawking. These pointers reached the German princely courts via France, Spain and Flanders. Contributions of foreign blood by crosses with Spanish Shorthaired Pointers, Pointers and the Italian Hounds took place. The current model exists from 1880. In France, the club of the breed was established in 1958. It is the most famous German Shorthaired Pointers and retriever most used in the world. Education Strong, tough, strong, fast, it’s a cross galloper who does not fear the cold, and hunting on any terrain. Hunting dog par excellence, primarily retriever. Its primary purpose is the pen plain or wood. It can be used for research in the blood of wounded game. Brimming with enthusiasm but balanced and obedient, it has character and can be stubborn. Attached to his master, adoring children, it is a pleasant companion. It keeps well, but it is not aggressive. It must receive a strong education. Tips It adapts to city life but needs space and exercise. Long daily trips are necessary. Regular brushing. Monitor ears. Using Hound. Pet dog. Description (1995) Head: Lean, well defined, neither too light nor too heavy. Rather broad skull, slightly domed. Moderately defined stop. Chamfer slightly convex. Muzzle long, wide, thick and powerful. Truffle brown or flesh in dogs with white dress. Powerful jaws. Adjusted lips well pigmented. Ears: Set high, of medium length, rounded at the tip, fall without turning, flat, along the sides of the head. Eyes: Medium size, dark brown. Body: Slightly elongated. Muscular neck without dewlap. Marked withers. Higher than broad chest. Well sprung ribs. Kidney short, broad, muscular. Members: Muscular, strong bone. Rounded feet. Finger tight. Strong pads. Tail: Set high, strong at the base, tapering gradually. Docked by about half for hunting. At rest, it is pending. In action, it is carried horizontally. Hair: Short (kurzhaar = pile), tight, dry, hard to the touch. Colour: Brown, unmarked. Brown with small white marks or flecks on the chest and limbs. Dark brown roan with brown head, brown patches or specks (inconspicuous dress appreciated hunting). Light brown roan with brown head, brown patches or specks or without plates. White with brown head markings, brown patches or specks. Black, with the same shades in the color or roan. Tan markings are permissible. A list or a white ball with speckled lips are allowed. Size: Male: from 62 to 66 cm. Female: from 58 to 63 cm. Weight: 25 to 32 kg.

Braque Hungarian

121b_large-e1361889716408HUNGARIAN BRAQUE Other names: Vizsla (shorthaired, wirehaired) Country of origin: Hungary History There are two varieties: variety haired (rövidszöru) the oldest. Among his ancestors we count the Hungarian Hound, yellow dog Turks, the Saluki. The first specimens of the current conformation appeared early in the eighteenth century. Other hunting dogs provided a blood supply as the German Braque. She was recognized by the FCI in 1938. The variety haired (Drotszoru). It dates back to the 30. It would have crossed the short-haired Pointer German Wirehaired Pointer with. It also cites among his ancestors, the Weimaraner, the retriever of Transylvania. This variety is very rare in France. Crosses between these two varieties are prohibited. Lively temperament Education, with a great adaptability and excellent nose is enjoyed on difficult terrain. He does not fear the heat. His quest is not extensive, driving to his master, the stop is net, it pays well and is a good swimmer. The short-haired variety, having a faster gallop, will be preferred in the plains. The variety haired, good for small game including woodcock is worth looking at the large blood wounded game. Balanced, it is very comfortable in a family. His education will be firm but gently. Tips It needs space and exercise. Regular brushing. Monitor ears. Using Hound. Pet dog. Description (1983) Head: Dry, noble. Moderately broad skull, slightly domed. Moderate stop. Chamfer law. Wide muzzle. Well-developed nose. Not hanging lips, brown. Ears: Medium length, falling flat against the cheeks. Eyes: Slightly oval, color, preferably darker, in harmony with that of the dress. Eye brown. Body: Slightly elongated but powerful. Neck medium length, well muscled, slightly arched, without dewlap. Accused withers. Moderately broad chest, deep. Ribs moderately sprung. Rein supported. Members: Long, muscular, strong bone. Feet slightly oval. Strong fingers tight. Slate gray pads. Tail: a little low, medium strong. End slightly curved upwards. Docked usually a quarter. In the variety haired, shortened by one third. Coat: Short, dense, straight, harsh. Ras and silky ears. Chin beard. Short and dry on the head. Thick and hard eyebrows. On the neck and trunk haired, dense, 2 to 4 cm long. Dense undercoat. More about the posterior edge of the members. Dense and thick tail. Dress: Color of the small cooked bread or different shades of fawn colored sand. Tiny white spots on chest and feet, marks dotted, are not defects. Size: Shorthair male from 56 to 61 cm. Female 52 to 57 cm. Hard male hair 58 to 62 cm. Female 54 to 58 cm. Weight: Short hair from 22 to 30 kg. Haired 25 to 32 cm. Group: Retrievers

Golden Retriever dog breed

golden retriever

Physical characteristics of the Golden Retriever

The general appearance of the Golden Retriever should be symmetrical, balanced, active, powerful, well aligned in its looks. The expression is of a thoughtful and friendly dog. The head is proportionate and well balanced. The skull is broad but not coarse. The muzzle is strong, broad and deep, with a length equal to that of the skull, with a well defined stop. The eyes should be dark brown, set well apart, with edges of dark eyelids. Ears of moderate size, are attached to approximately eye level. The legs are straight and have good bone, well positioned in the trunk. The tail is set and carried to the height of the back: it comes down to the hock, never bend at the end.
Coat: Flat or wavy with beautiful fringes. Thick and waterproof undercoat.
Color: all shades ranging from gold to cream are allowed, but not red or mahogany.
Size: 56-61 cm for males and 51 to 56 cm for females
Weight: approximately 30 kg

Origins and history

The recognition of the breed is fairly recent, in 1931, but virtually nothing is known of its history. We do not know about that as legends: the most famous tells that in 1858 Lord Tweedmouth bought a Caucasian Shepherds couple in bright dress he had seen work in a circus. At each of their reach, he would have kept the puppies “golden” (gold) to fix the recessive character of the dress. Another theory is that the breed originated from a cross between a Bloodhound (Bloodhound) color sand and water Spaniel now disappeared. Other authors also argue that the progenitor of the breed was us, a yellow dog born from a cross between the Water Spaniel and a Labrador Retriever.

Character and abilities

The Golden Retriever has a  quite exceptional character -  it is perfect with children, gentle and quiet with the elderly. Rugged and durable, it’s a walking companion for the young and of course a valuable aid for the hunter. It is a dog that needs to spend a lot of time with people because it has a great need for human companionship: it feels like a part of the family, that is to say, the “band” in which he lives and wants to play a full part in making himself useful and participating in all the activities. In hunting, it’s a very clever reporter, especially in water.


RetrieverIt is a very sturdy dog. Although Golden Retriever was born for work in water and has a perfectly waterproof coat, it must be dry at the base of the tail when it comes out of the water: otherwise, it may suffer from “broken tail” (broken tail), that is to say, a painful contraction of the abductor muscles which leads the dog to wear his tail incorrectly, just as if it was broken.
Average life expectancy: about 12 years
Living – Either inside or outside.
The Golden Retriever will be happy to live in a house with garden but he knows to settle for apartment life if it came out very often.
Information and tips
“Golden” does not mean “dog in gold dress,” but “gold dog”, “golden rapporteur” in the metaphorical sense. Furthermore, all Golden lack a golden robe, but they are often cream (which is also very beautiful) …

Making your new puppy happy

cute puppy

Before your new puppy arrives, you need to prepare some things to make sure it is comfortable and happy in his new environment.

Water bowls and food

metal bowl
Choose water bowls and food made from stainless steel or ceramic with a weighted bottom. Plastic bowls will probably end chewed, teeth marks and become a breeding ground for bacteria. A heavy bowl will also be more difficult to flip around by accident (for you and your dog).

If your dog has long ears that can soak them into its food and water, consider a narrow bowl, to keep it clean and dry as much as possible.

Something to chew on

Dogs love to chew, and a puppy tries to chew everything it finds. So if you want to protect your socks, your shoes and your couch buy chew toys for your puppy to test its teeth on. Just make sure they are not poisonous, they are durable and not too hard for the teeth of the puppy. You can also deal with the “chew” of Pedigree® specifically designed for small dogs.

Warning: never leave your puppy alone with something that could stifle burst into her mouth or electrocute it.


There is an incredible selection of dog toys - go to your local pet store or on the Internet: You can find rings, balls, ropes and strings to pull. All are designed to make your education sessions or games more fun - for you and your dog.

Brushing kit

For your puppy, brushing is not only to unravel her hair and make it beautiful for it is an experience that reminds him of his mother. Visit your local pet store and get a comb or brush and allow a brushing session per day. Different dresses require different brushes - seek advice from the seller of the animal, the breeder of your puppy or other owners who have a dog like yours.

You will also need to cut the claws of your dog and give him a bath from time to time - so you can buy a pair of claws and a dog shampoo.


Stairs, balconies and pools should be out of reach of a curious puppy - and a strategically placed barrier will allow you to not have to supervise. A barrier can also help protect your furniture or personal belongings of “instinct chewerirresistible puppy.

Use a crate

You may have purchased a carrying case to take your puppy home. And as long as the box is large enough for your puppy to lay down comfortably, it is also perfect for use once inside the house. The dogs hate going to the toilet in their own bed, so a box is a good exercise for the toilet during the first few weeks when your puppy develops his new routine. You can also use it to take the drive to discover new sounds and new places. At night, lie your puppy in his crate, and as you go out at regular intervals, it does not get dirty floors.

A comfortable place


To accommodate your puppy, install a basket in a ventilated room, away from air currents and easy to clean. For example in the living room or kitchen.


The doghouse

dog house
If you choose a niche that size must be twice that of the adult dog. It is very important that it is dry and slightly raised from the ground. Lay out a warm, cozy mattress. You must install its niche in the spring or summer so he can get used gradually and especially before winter arrives. Finally, do not forget to check with your municipality on the laws regarding the dimensions imposed niches dogs.

The first food your dog gets

The arrival in her new home is a huge change for your dog. Then you can make a small gesture to give him a bowl of food to which he is accustomed. Your dog will feel welcomed and safe.

After that, you can choose the food you want to give him. By mixing the new food and the old, gradually, over a week, you can change the diet of a dog for what you think is best for it.

40 years of nutritional research will ensure that our foods contain exactly the right mix of protein, carbohydrates, fat and fiber to each life stage of your dog.

A collar and leash

You can not get your new puppy until it has received all vaccines. You can spend this time to get used to wearing his collar and leash. So it will not be a problem when it’s time to explore the outside world.

Collars and leashes are available in different materials. Adjustable nylon collars or leather are recommended because they lie at the same time as the puppy grows. Adjust the loop so that you can comfortably fit two fingers between the collar and the neck of your puppy. Regularly check the fit of the collar; you will be amazed at the speed at which the puppy grows.

If you have a very small dog, like a small terrier or a very small breed, you may prefer to use a harness - it makes it easier to protect sensitive necks. (Do not forget to make sure your dog always wears a medal).

First visit your puppy to the vet

Ask the neighbors dog owners to recommend a veterinarian. Once your dog is used to you and his new home, take him to spend a visit. In addition to the general control, you must talk to, vaccines and electronic chip.

Take reward and praise your dog. With good vet and a positive attitude, a visit to the vet can be fun for your dog, but also rather frightening.


You can also discuss with your vet care costs and insurance for animals. Think of the level that would cover your needs, quotes and ask how they handle insurance applications before signing a contract.

What kind of food to choose for your dog?

dog food
You want to give your dog the most suitable food for it in order to provide it with a healthy diet? But you hear many different opinions, and you do not know what to choose: home or industrial, dry or wet, what quality food is all about and how to differentiate between different standards? Here, you will find quite a few handy advices what types of food are out there and which ones are seemingly the best.

The different types of food

There are several ways to feed your pet. Specifically, we classify the types of foods into three categories:

  • Crackers: industrial dry food, most currently used.
  • The mash or pellets in boxes: Industrial wet food, also very popular.
  • The “housewife ration“: a cooked every day at home eating.

The BARF” of feeding dogs raw meat and bones, without grain is one way some people surely prefer. Not recommended because it is so very difficult to meet the nutritional needs of the dog including minerals, micro-nutrients deficiency, vitamins and fatty acids and others.

In the case of a ready industrial food, such as boxes or croquettes, there are several levels of quality:

Very good food, so-called “health” or “premium” that will be tailored to each dog based on its breed, age, level of activity. You find these foods from your vet or in pet specialised shops.

Standard foods you find in the supermarket.

Household food or industrial food?
Domestic supply (ie homemade)

The domestic supply is interesting and most certainly beneficial if it is prepared in a balanced way. Its main advantage is the use of fresh ingredients. It must be made ​​of meats, cereals, vegetables plus oil, of the yeast and added vitamins and minerals. Dogs have been known to eat whatever meals humans do, for the most part anyway. Generally speaking, if it smells of meat then it must be tasty and the dog will be all over it.

homemade dog foodThe main drawback is the difficulty to prepare a healthy, balanced meals, and that every day. This requires knowledge of canine nutrition and dietetics fairly extensive. Must be thoroughly familiar with the details of your dog’s needs, which vary by race, age, activity level and then weigh each ingredient. That is to say if you absolutely are aiming towards crafting the super diet and want to make sure your pet gets positively the best of the best.

The domestic supply and thus generates significant constraints, first of all in terms of cost for a balanced diet contains expensive ingredients (fresh meat, vegetables). Then it takes time to prepare the ration, the shelf life is short (2 or 3 days in the refrigerator). Finally, dietary result is average, especially since the dog will tend to sort and eat only what he prefers accentuating the dietary imbalance. These are the kind of things you need to be mindful of while considering cooking dog food domestically. At the end of the day, dog will eat what it wants, may even resort to sort things out from what you give it, leaving out valuable nutritional components.

Regarding the croquettes mixture / boxes or croquettes / table scraps, the exact composition of the bowl can not be defined, this type of food is considered a household ration and is certainly unbalanced!

Recommendation of the veterinarian: Attention to the diet “old“, ie a soup made ​​with rice, pieces of meat animals (very oily) and table scraps! This type of diet is very unbalanced and leads to significant deficiencies, harmful to the health of the animal. Standards delivered by any commercial feed is preferable to the random nature and potential deadliness of the old habits of feeding dogs.

Industrial food

canned foodIndustrial dog food is easy to prepare and above all, it is always balanced. At the bare minimum you can expect that it covers most of the bases when it comes to nutrition and is a good all-rounder despite age, activity and other variants.  If you take a food “standard”, your dog will receive nutrients (proteins, carbohydrates and fats) in sufficient quantities, but no guarantee the origin and quality of these nutrients. Premium foods are themselves made ​​from premium ingredients with a nutritional level and higher digestibility. Processed foods are developed by experts in canine nutrition. These foods contain all nutrients in optimal proportions, it is not necessary to add vitamins, minerals or any other ingredient or supplements.

Recommendation of the veterinarian: It is advisable to give your dog croquettes at a young age. The food industry is positively abundant of these types of food so do not vary the meal by adding table scraps or homemade meal. To please and treat it from time to time, think of dog treats (biscuits, chewing bones) which will be given in-between meals, as a reward.

The choice of quality

Processed foods are available in two quality levels (“standard” or “premium“) and in two forms, dry food (kibble) or wet food (boxes).

‘Standard’ foods

These are the foods available in supermarkets. We’re now starting to find food for puppies to senior dogs, but overall, these foods are not segmented according to the needs of each dog.

The price difference between the different ranges can be explained by the difference in quality of the ingredients that make up each type of food. The are very different quality and origin of meat used, the standard foods are generally much fatter, so the dogs are sometimes more palatable. They are also much less digestible, the amount to be consumed to the same nutritional value is higher than a standard premium food food.

Their main advantage of these sorts of foods is that they are generally cheaper. But be careful because it does not compare the price of a bag of kibble but the daily cost. For a bag of premium dry food lasts longer than a standard bag of kibble that should give larger amounts to the dog. The difference in quality is immediately apparent on the feces of the animal and particularly puppies that tend to have diarrhea, it is very rare with a premium food.

‘Premium’ foods

These are the foods of “health” found in specialized circuits (pet shops, garden centers, veterinary clinics and others) that are of higher quality and above which are segmented according to the sizes of races, ages or physiological needs individuals. Depending on the needs of your dog, there is a food which is adapted. You can find food for puppy, adult dog with normal activity, increased or decreased activity, small, medium or large breed, and for older dogs or dogs with a tendency to be overweight.

There are healthy foods that are perfectly balanced. Check out a few:

  • Complete proteins, lipids, carbohydrates, fiber, minerals, trace elements.
  • Balanced: for a puppy growing rates of protein and fat should be higher than for adults, as well, calcium and phosphorus needed to build and reinforce the skeleton must be present, but not too much to avoid unrest growth.
  • Digestible is a food of good quality, it is more digestible, less amounts to be important to ingest the same nutritional value, and there is less residue thus stool.

A puppy eats large amounts of food relative to its weight, with food of a higher quality and more digestible, it will take less accustomed to stuff.

In adult dogs, the difference is found very quickly just by looking at the animal faeces. They are less frequent, molded, size and smell is much less with a premium food.

Boxes or croquettes, what to choose?

It is known that a puppy will easily get used to a kind of eating pattern and may even go as far as to refuse to change its particular diet even if required to. It is therefore necessary at the outset to make the right choice straight off the bat.

Mash canned

The mash is very palatable, it’s a real treat, so the puppy eats more and does so enjoying it heavily. However, it has a number of drawbacks.

The mash is often too greasy, it is more difficult to digest and spoils quickly in the air, it “turns” especially in summer. Be aware that the paste contains 70-80% water, with the same nutritional value, the puppy must ingest much higher amount than kibble. Resulting in the bad habit of gorging” more indigestion, flatulence and often larger, softer stool odor,.

Mash also has the disadvantage of promoting the emergence of tartar on the teeth. While the patties through a limited natural and mechanical action of friction on the teeth during chewing.

Finally, the supply of boxes costs much more than a diet as kibble.


Crackers offer many benefits:

  • They are cleaner, they do not look and feel softer
  • More digestible, they reduce the risk of diarrhea, flatulence and give “manageable” stool more
  • They are less expensive

Best for the oral health of your dog chewing kibble helps massage teeth and gums. In the long term, the deposit of tartar on the teeth is less important than a dog that eats only canned food.

Recommendation of the veterinarian: energy is a key factor for the health of your dog. We strongly advise you to give it a diet as croquettes, premium quality and responsive to their needs (age, breed size, activity level, specific state such as overweight).


Overall, we are hoping to have convinced you, it makes a lot of sense to keep dog’s specific requirements in mind when choosing its food. There are a number of reasonable considerations to weight up – price, quality, age and physical activity of the dog and wet or dry and of food. It is not always easy to determine the best course of action but if you hold your dog near and dear, you are expected to go that extra mile for its own sake.

How to choose the best dry food for your dog?

dog food
Feeding your dog is a vital duty of yours if you have chosen to have one these loyal friend pets.

To provide shelter, water and food are the three fundamental tasks of all owners (managers) of dogs and cats of course. A dog should be fed every day of his life (really every day?) For at least a decade.

Today, advances in food specialized in feeding pets (pet food) allow to adopt a dog without asking any technical question like “but how will I feed this animal?

Industrial give you the answer on a plate, even many trays! The supply of pet food is simply daunting. Dry food, wet food, “premium“, “ultra premium” for sterilized dogs or for dog sports, you can find everything in very good as very bad.

If the offer is currently very diverse and undeniably, it remains heavily towards dry food, croquettes.

These croquettes are the result of major technological advances in pet food (cooking - extrusion, coating, drying ), and they are truly the ones who have the monopole feed pets ..
Crackers: market leader in food

8 out of 10 owners use dry kibble to feed their dog. It is an indisputable fact, that is the source of a huge market of over 2.5 billion in France only!

The croquettes are practical, all garden centers offer, supermarkets, gas stations, offices and grooming the course veterinary clinics.

For the price, it’s like everything, there is the first prize especially in supermarkets and garden centers and high-end or “premium” in veterinary clinics. Each owner decides by himself, or through your veterinarian, who will serve the croquettes meals to its Medoro loved.

At the apparent cacophony of brands of kibble, only 3 large multinational share more than 70% market share. Mars Petcare, Nestlé Purina Petcare and Affinity have the most well-known brands such as Royal Canin, Friskies, Fido, and Affinity Advance Brekkies or Cesar Canigou and both owned by Mars Petcare.

Faced with stalls filled with packets of kibble, so do not be fooled, these international companies seek above all profit, even beyond the actual well-being of your animals.

That is why it should be as vigilant as possible in the selection of these croquettes. It is imperative for the health of your pet, to know all the tricks used by manufacturers of kibble, handling with great skill the texts of European and French legislation on the subject.

So I suggest you discover the 5 golden rules that you should always apply before buying any package of kibble. Even if your vet will recommend them, do not buy until you have passed the test of kibble 5 rules.

eating puppiesYou will discover later in this article what are the healthy alternative to crackers, and why it is necessary to have a healthy even against the advice of his veterinarian doubt.
5 golden rules for choosing the right croquettes

I remind you, do not buy your cakes before they pass this test. I guarantee you that you might fail a number of candidates, and direct you to other brands, other manufacturers.

The rules are not edited in ascending order of importance, they are all equal.
1st rule: “The more protein and minimal carbs”

9 times out of 10 you will never find the amount of carbohydrates (or sugars) contained in the kibble. Why? EU law simply does not require manufacturers to mention.

This is all the more interesting for manufacturers of pet food because dogs have so far been no need for carbohydrates. In other words, dogs can live very well without carbohydrate intake, but with intakes of protein and sufficient fat.

So there is no point for you, the owners, to know this amount is generally high in kibble.

Unfortunately for us, the manufacturers do not make life easier to discover the actual amounts of protein and carbohydrates contained in the kibble. That’s why I urge you to download this Excel sheet that you will instantly dry matter intake and calorie intake of carbohydrates, fats and proteins.

Download the Excel sheet

Just know the rate of protein and crude fat, moisture (if it is not mentioned, it is estimated at 10%) and ash (ashes or in English, and if they they are not mentioned are estimated at 8%).

At the protein level, caloric intake should be as close as possible to 56%, while carbohydrate calorie intake should approach 14%.

On your first calculations and comparisons of your first, you may be horrified by the amounts of carbohydrates, often around 45%. Please bear in mind that 25% of carbohydrates is an excellent score for kibble. Approaching closer to the figures.
2nd rule: A maximum of animal protein”

If you‘re not yet convinced, dogs are carnivores. Carnivores with great morphological, anatomical and physiological arsenal to devour and digest live prey.

Although domestic dogs now have incontrovertible evidence of adaptation to humans, and higher sugar diet, they should be getting mainly proteins from the animal kingdom.

This is why you must calculate the share of animal protein with those of vegetable protein to choose those that provide the most animal products.

To do this, you must beware of all vegetable protein intake including all gluten grains (corn, wheat mainly) that provide only proteins and serve to increase total protein intake.

Of course, the ingredients that you will take into account in these calculations must imperatively follow the rules.
3rd rule: Choose good quality animal protein, avoid the worst”

This rule complements the previous one. Beyond the amount of animal protein, which will be taken to find the nuggets with the maximum possible quality of protein is essential.

Rather old scientific studies have demonstrated the important role of quality animal protein quantity. In other words, it is better to have less animal protein in kibble, but better quality.

To find good quality animal protein, just read the label. Here is the ranking of animal protein premium to the worst:

Fresh chicken (or beef, poultry, pork), dehydrated poultry meat, dehydrated poultry proteins, poultry by-products.

An important note to this rule: some very clever manufacturers have clearly understood now that consumers read labels and seek those famous right ingredients. Therefore, some nuggets appear in first place ingredients fresh chicken”, which has the effect of relieving the consumer and phish, while following ingredients is absolutely not recommended. This trap is classic, so beware and read the entire label.
4th rule: “The animal and plant species used to appear

This rule again appeal to the current legislation. Manufacturers of kibble does not have the obligation to indicate the species (beef, poultry, pork) or vegetable (wheat, corn, barley, etc.) used.

From that moment, and if you read a list of ingredient ‘animal fat’ or or ‘grain flours “” dehydrated animal proteins, “I advise you to reset immediately and systematically croquettes in question.

Until proven otherwise, if the manufacturer does not want to know what species he uses, it’s either he simply does not know what there is in these croquettes, or that it wants you knowledge. In both cases, the risk of falling on the raw materials of inferior quality and very high.

Knowing this, beware of ingredients whose species is unknown.
5th Rule: Grain is to minimize

In canine nutrition, you should know that cereals are under heavy controversy. First, grains are first cheap manufacturers croquettes materials, on the other hand these grains provide lots of calories as carbohydrates (starches) in the diet, which greatly increases the energy value of kibble.

Unfortunately, grains have never been part of the diet of dogs, wild or tame (by today proportions). Only with the advent of modern croquettes that came heavily in grain feeding dogs.

Technically, the grain is very unattractive for the dog because they provide only carbohydrates (remember that the needs of the dog are equal to 0), very few nutrients and vitamins and greatly fatigued the dog’s digestive system, especially through the pancreas amylase synthesis.

It’s not for nothing that the fashionable alternatives croquettes are guaranteed without grains.

How to choose the kibble for his dog?
From theory to practice

In the light of these rules, you now understand why you have to compare them carefully croquettes. Go home and lay flat all the pros and cons of your candidates before you buy.

I admit that the task is not easy, especially at the start when we discover that face hidden nuggets with all that that implies.

That is why I propose a practical study of three croquettes (A, B and C) very different, which do exist on the market. These croquettes, there is a very bad lot, an intermediate and a final batch well above the others. It’s up to you to analyze and give your results by comment!

I do not want to influence anyone to a brand of kibble in particular, croquettes remain anonymous.

Lot A:

Cereals, meat and animal by-products (10%) *, vegetable protein extracts, oils and fats, derivatives of vegetable origin, sugars, minerals

Crude Protein: 22%; crude fat: 11%; Crude ash: 8%

Lot B:

Fresh Chicken (22.1%), dehydrated poultry meat and grease (14.7%), sweet potatoes, potatoes, fresh salmon (7.4%), dehydrated and defatted salmon (7.4%), fresh white fish (3.7%), small peas, powdered eggs (3%), chicken fat (3%), alfalfa, chicken sauce (2.6%), duck fat (0.8%), minerals, fiber peas, vitamins, yeast

Crude Protein: 31%; crude fat: 16%; Crude ash: 9%; Moisture: 8.5%

Lot C:

Chicken (20%), wheat, maize gluten, dehydrated poultry protein, rice (8%), animal fat, corn, autolysate, dried beet pulp, minerals, egg powder, fish oil, colostrum (0 , 1%)

Crude Protein: 30%; crude fat content: 19%; Crude ash: 7%; Moisture: 8.5%

It’s up to you. For more hesitant, I suggest you read an analysis I made on my blog.
Other nuggets?

It is important to point out that choosing wrong type of food can disturb your dog’s stomach substantially and as a result it may cause excessive diarrhea or even vomiting.  In case such scenario plays out, it would be best if you have trusted HeroCleaners at your side to help you manage this.

Of course, there are alternatives to traditional cakes. Alternating current offer of dog food in the most appropriate manner possible. The (very known as the BARF for Biologically Adapted Raw Food) diet based on raw frozen preparation or whole prey tries to recreate the diet of wild dogs, mainly meat meat, offal, bones and a very small proportion of vegetables (often pre-digested) and fruit (often spoiled).

Of course, these alternative diets are not in the good graces of the workplace, and are frequently demonized by veterinarians and faculty as I show in my survey of French veterinary schools.

Far be it from me to give you a demonstration of these modes of power, I just want to point out that there are other ways that the “whole cake” and that many owners have successfully tested these transitions you will find all necessary information on the web.

To be complete, you also have the option to direct you to a so-called domestic supply, which has those advantages and disadvantages, in which you cook (cook understand) feed your dog.
Who am I to talk about canine nutrition?

I am forced to write this paragraph because not a pipe, who am I to talk about canine nutrition and marketings pitfalls of agro-pet food?

I like me rarely self-flagellate, but I am nothing. Or a professional canine health or a veterinarian or a veterinarian, much less a student of a veterinary assistant school.

I am a young blogger passionate about human and animal nutrition which investigates below what is on our plates and in bowls of our dogs. I recently published a book on my personal blog, Hard to Swallow, in which I explain thoroughly all the conflicts of interest between veterinarians and pet food industry.

The evidence is public, and many can not awaken in you a healthy doubt, but systematically to the advice of your veterinarian in nutrition, and to all manufacturers of kibble, even if they are the best in the world.